In a Vietnamese family meal, a pot of braised fish or braised meat always holds the central place. Braised dishes are not fussy about ingredients, but they do demand patience and an understanding of how seasonings soak into every fiber of the meat.
If you have ever braised a dish that turned out overly salty, dry and tough, or fishy, do not worry. Once you understand a few basic principles of marinating, coloring and low heat, you will be able to braise any dish deliciously, whether it is freshwater fish, pork belly or eggs.
Prep to remove fishy and gamey smells
The cleaning step determines whether a braise smells good or not. For fish, after cleaning out the guts and gills, rub it with coarse salt and rinse it again with rice-washing water or water mixed with a little vinegar to remove the fishy smell. Some people even quickly blanch the fish in boiling water with a few slices of ginger before braising.
For meat, a quick blanch in boiling water for about a minute removes dirty scum and gamey odors, then rinse it clean. For pork belly, choose a piece with a balanced ratio of lean to fat so it does not turn dry when braised. Careful prep at this step is the foundation of a clean-tasting braise.
Marinate and let it soak before braising
Marinating is when the seasonings begin to permeate the ingredients. The general formula includes fish sauce, sugar, pepper, shallots and minced garlic, sometimes with a little caramel sauce for color. Mix well and let it sit for at least twenty to thirty minutes; the longer it marinates, the more flavorful it becomes.
An important tip is to season a bit lighter than your desired taste, because as it braises the liquid reduces and the saltiness intensifies. Sugar not only adds sweetness but also gives the meat or fish a beautiful gloss and balances the saltiness of the fish sauce. For fish, adding a few slices of ginger or galangal while marinating brings out a very fitting fragrance.
Make caramel sauce for a naturally beautiful color
The appealing amber-brown color of a braise comes from caramel sauce, that is, burnt caramelized sugar. Put sugar in a pot with a little water, heat over medium until the sugar turns reddish-brown and fragrant, then quickly add warm water to avoid bitterness.
If you are not used to making caramel sauce, you can buy it ready-made or use some fresh coconut water to braise, which gives a beautiful golden color and a clean sweetness. Do not let the sugar burn too dark, or the whole pot will turn bitter and ruined.
Braise on low heat and be patient with time
The secret to a good braise lies in gentle low heat and time. After searing the ingredients, add water to just cover the meat or fish, then lower the heat right down and simmer slowly so the seasonings soak in deeply and the liquid thickens naturally.
Good braised fish often has to be braised in two or three rounds, that is, let it cool then braise again, so the fish bones become meltingly tender and the flavor grows richer. Braised meat is the same, the longer it simmers the more tender and flavorful the pieces become. While braising, avoid stirring much so the fish does not fall apart, just tilt the pot and swirl gently when needed.
A few familiar variations on the base recipe
Once you grasp the general principles, variations come easily. Braised meat with eggs, Tet-style braised pork, clay-pot braised fish, pepper-braised or pineapple-braised dishes all rest on the same framework of marinating and low-heat braising. Add coconut water for sweetness, add chili and pepper for a warm spiciness.
You can also braise with other ingredients like radish, bamboo shoots or tofu to make the dish richer and more economical. Every region and every family has its own recipe, so do not hesitate to adjust it to suit your household’s taste.
Storing and reheating braised dishes
Braised dishes have the advantage of keeping well and growing more flavorful the more they are reheated. After eating, let the pot cool completely before storing it in the fridge, tightly covered so it does not pass its smell to other food. A moderately salty braise can keep in the fridge for a few days and still taste good, even richer than the first day.
When reheating, simmer over low heat to warm it evenly, adding a little water if it looks too reduced to avoid harsh saltiness. For braised fish, reheat gently so the pieces do not fall apart. If you want to keep it longer, divide it into portions and freeze, then thaw and reheat when needed. Store it well, and a braise cooked once can carry you through many busy meals.
Braised dishes teach us patience: seasonings need time to soak in, and low heat calls for waiting. In return comes a richly flavored braise, and nothing beats it with hot rice.
Start with a simple braise like braised meat with eggs, then gradually try braised fish. Once you understand the principles, a whole world of savory rice-friendly dishes will open up in your kitchen.